Friday, July 1, 2011

Judging Beer with Grandmaster Gordon Strong – BSHB Podcast #6

Gordon Strong, the President of the BJCP is my guest this week.  He is the world’s only Grand Master Level V beer judge and also one of the top competitive home brewers in the US.  We talk about judging beer, what it takes to be a Grandmaster Level V beer judge, and how an average home brewer can use competition and beer judging skills to improve their beer.  Gordon also talks about his new book “Brewing Better Beer” which is being released this Spring.

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This week’s guest is Gordon Strong, the President of the Beer Judge Certification Program, and also the world’s only Grandmaster Level V beer judge.  Gordon also has a book coming out in April-June timeframe called “Brewing Better Beer”The focus of this week’s episode is Beer Judging and the Beer Judge Certification ProgramWe talk about the BJCP style guide and how its used for beer brewing and judgingWhat a first time competitor might see in competitionSome of the most common flaws Gordon sees in home brewed beers he judgesThe BJCP certification program, its levels, and how to become a judgeAdvice for competitive brewersGordon’s life as a jet-set rock star beer brewerGordon’s new book “Brewing Better Beer” coming out this Spring

Thanks again to Gordon Strong for taking time out to participate in the podcast.

Leave me a comment below or visit our discussion forum to leave a comment in the podcast section there.

Great News! We’ve been featured in the New and Notable podcasts on iTunes.

Subscribe on iTunes

If you are not using iTunes, you can subscribe using this feed:

http://feeds.feedburner.com/BeersmithcomHomeBrewingBlog

And finally, don’t forget to subscribe to the blog and my newsletter (use the links in the sidebar) – to get free weekly articles on home brewing.

Tagged as: BJCP, Beer, beer judge, competition, gordon strong, judging

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Thursday, June 30, 2011

Judging Beer with Grandmaster Gordon Strong – BSHB Podcast #6

Gordon Strong, the President of the BJCP is my guest this week.  He is the world’s only Grand Master Level V beer judge and also one of the top competitive home brewers in the US.  We talk about judging beer, what it takes to be a Grandmaster Level V beer judge, and how an average home brewer can use competition and beer judging skills to improve their beer.  Gordon also talks about his new book “Brewing Better Beer” which is being released this Spring.

Download the MP3 File – Right Click and “Save As” to download this mp3 file

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

This week’s guest is Gordon Strong, the President of the Beer Judge Certification Program, and also the world’s only Grandmaster Level V beer judge.  Gordon also has a book coming out in April-June timeframe called “Brewing Better Beer”The focus of this week’s episode is Beer Judging and the Beer Judge Certification ProgramWe talk about the BJCP style guide and how its used for beer brewing and judgingWhat a first time competitor might see in competitionSome of the most common flaws Gordon sees in home brewed beers he judgesThe BJCP certification program, its levels, and how to become a judgeAdvice for competitive brewersGordon’s life as a jet-set rock star beer brewerGordon’s new book “Brewing Better Beer” coming out this Spring

Thanks again to Gordon Strong for taking time out to participate in the podcast.

Leave me a comment below or visit our discussion forum to leave a comment in the podcast section there.

Great News! We’ve been featured in the New and Notable podcasts on iTunes.

Subscribe on iTunes

If you are not using iTunes, you can subscribe using this feed:

http://feeds.feedburner.com/BeersmithcomHomeBrewingBlog

And finally, don’t forget to subscribe to the blog and my newsletter (use the links in the sidebar) – to get free weekly articles on home brewing.

Tagged as: BJCP, Beer, beer judge, competition, gordon strong, judging

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Counting Calories in your Homebrewed Beer

This week, I take a look at calories in your home brewed beer, how to calculate them and where they come from.  With superbowl weekend upon us, the subject of how many calories are in your homebrew may be moot given the mountains of beer and snacks likely to be consumed on Sunday afternoon, but for those of you who are calorie or carbohydrate conscious, read on.

I’ll start with the good news first – an average 12oz commercial beer has slightly less calories than a comparable soda or even a glass of juice.  An average American lager (say Budweiser at 5% ABV) has about 145 calories for 12 oz.  A Coke classic runs about 155 calories for a 12 oz can and orange juice is about 184 calories.

If you drink light beer, they generally run from 100-112 calories per 12 oz and have slightly less alcohol (average of about 4.2% alcohol), placing them well below regular sodas or juice.  Premium beers run a bit heavier – a Sam Adams Lager or Boston Ale has about 160 calories and high alcohol beers like New Belgium Trippel (7.8% alcohol) contain 215 calories in a single 12oz serving.

Not surprisingly the calories in beer comes from alcohol and carbohydrates – both from the malted barley (or other grains) used to brew beer.  During fermentation, yeast breaks down the simple carbohydrates and converts them into ethanol (ethyl alcohol).  The longer chains of carbohydrates that the yeast cannot break down remain in the finished beer, contributing additional calories.  Full bodied and all malt beers tend to have more residual carbohydrates.  Roughly 60% of the calories in an average beer come from alcohol and 40% from residual carbohydrates.

Despite the term “beer belly”, very little of the alcohol you consume is converted into fat.  In fact, your liver converts most of the alcohol into acetate which is then released into your bloodstream and consumed directly to produce energy.  The bad part is that when your body is burning alcohol/acetate, it is not burning fat, so you will tend to retain the fat you already have, plus your body may convert some of the residual carbs from the beer into fat.

Adding to the effect is the fact that alcohol tends to be an appetite enhancer – so if you drink a lot you will likely eat more than you would with water or even other carbohydrate drinks.  Not that all news is bad – in fact several studies have found that drinking in moderation (1-2 drinks a day) can actually have a positive effect on overall health if combined with a healthy diet and exercise.  However, clearly moderation is the key.

Calorie conscious brewers can estimate the number of calories in 12oz of homebrewed beer from the starting (OG) and ending (FG) gravities.  BeerSmith also will show you the calories if you use the Alcohol/Attenuation tool.

Calorie_from_alcohol = 1881.22 * FG * (OG-FG)/(1.775-OG)Calories_from_carbs = 3550.0 * FG * ((0.1808 * OG) + (0.8192 * FG) – 1.0004)Total calories – just add the Calories_from_alcohol to Calories_from_carbs

So lets look at a sample beer with a OG of 1.048 and a FG of 1.010 which has 4.9% alcohol by volume.  Running the numbers above, we get 99 calories from alcohol and 59 calories from carbohydrates, for a total of 158 calories.  Most beers have calorie counts in this range – with the bulk of calories coming from alcohol and not carbohydrates.

Light and low-carb beers tend to be made at lower alcohol levels, and also have less malt and more adjuncts (corn, rice, etc) to reduce residual carbohydrates.  Essentially light beer makers attack the problem on both sides – by cutting the alcohol levels and also cutting the residual carbs.  Corn, rice and other non-barley adjuncts tent to ferment more fully leaving less residual carbs.  The tradeoff is that the body of the beer comes from the residual carbs, so light beers made with more rice will generally have less body than barley malt beers.  However, in very light bodied styles like American Pilsner, the effect is less noticed than it would be in a low-cal Porter or Pale Ale.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s article on calories and beer.  Thank you for joining me on the BeerSmith Home Brewing Blog.  Please subscribe to the newsletter for weekly articles on home brewing, and have a great home brewing week!

Tagged as: Beer, calculating, calories, carbohydrates, carbs, estimating, light beer

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5 Ways to Save Money Home Brewing

Compared to some buying quality commercial beer, home brewing is still relatively inexpensive, but hop and malt prices have risen the last few years as a result of the hop shortage and shortage for certain malts.  In addition the global recession has put some pressure on many homebrewers.  This week I’ll give you 5 tips on how to save a few dollars home brewing.

One of the simplest ways to save money on your ingredients is to buy in bulk.  If you are an all grain brewer, you can buy 50lb bags of pale malt locally for less than half of what it would cost if you bought it by the pound.  A 50 lb bag of pale malt goes a long way – usually 10-12 batches.

You can do the same with specialty grains and hops.  Hops by the pound is available from mail order houses for less than half the cost of retail hops by the ounce.  Many stores offer you a substantial discount if you purchase hops by the pound.

What if you don’t need 50lbs of black patent malt or an entire pound of BC Goldings hops?  Contact your local homebrew club or some brewing friends and do a group buy.  Buy several pounds of hops and a few bags of commonly used specialty grains and divide them up.  One of the best suppliers for large bags of grains is your local homebrew store – many of these sell 50lb bags of grains and also bulk hops.  If they don’t have a 50lb specialty bag of grain, they can often special order it for you with their next order and save on shipping.

Another money saving strategy is to reduce the hops you are using.  A few years back when the hop crisis first hit and hop prices doubled and tripled overnight, I wrote an article on 10 Tips for Surviving the Hops Shortage.  It contains some great tips for reducing your hop usage without sacrificing the taste or quality of your beer.

Little things like using a full batch boil, boiling your bittering hops a bit longer or using higher alpha hops for bittering can save money over time on your hop bill.    Take a look at that article if you want some creative suggestions.  Another offshoot I enjoy is growing hops at home.

Liquid yeast (and the recent crop of high quality dry yeasts) have significantly increased the quality of home brewed beers, but they are not inexpensive.  Next to malt grains, it is usually the most expensive component that goes into your home brewed beer.

One instant way to save money is to wash your yeast and reuse it for another batch.  Washing yeast is a process that lets you save yeast from one batch and store it safely in your refrigerator to use it on another batch.  Done properly, you can save yeast for several months using this technique.

Instead of buying your brewing equipment from the store, consider making your own.  Brewers are a pretty creative bunch and beer brewing gives you the opportunity to experiment with all kinds of interesting containers, pipes, pumps and other toys.  Examples include making your own mash tun, building a chiller or making a hop back.

Switching to all grain is another way to save money.  All grain batches can be brewed at prices generally 30% less than extract beers.   If you buy grains in bulk you can save even more.  Grains cost less than extract, and you achieve higher hop utilization with a full batch boil, reducing your hop usage.

Brewing all grain does require an equipment investment up front, but if you are a frequent brewer you will pay for it in the long run.  Also, brewing all grain gives you additional control over the brewing process and the ability to use a full range of specialty grains including some that must be mashed.

Those are the money saving tips for this week.  I have some great new stuff coming soon including a collection of my blog articles in book form – look for it next month.  Thank you for joining the BeerSmith blog - and please subscribe if you want to get regular weekly articles like this delivered to your inbox for free.

Tagged as: Beer, brewing, grain, homebrew, hops, money, saving, yeast

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Beer Bitterness and IBUs with Glenn Tinseth – BSHB Podcast 9

Dr Glenn Tinseth, the author of the Tinseth equation for estimating bitterness is my guest this week.  The Tinseth equation is the most widely used equation for estimating bitterness by brewers from around the world.  Glenn talks about hops, bitterness, international bitterness units, hop utilization and much more.

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This week my guest is Dr Glenn Tinseth (realbeer.com/hops)- the author of the Tinseth equation for hop utilizationI mention I’ll be attending the National Homebrewers Conference in JuneWe talk about Glenn’s introduction to brewing, and his research into hopsInternational Bitterness Units (IBUs) and his research into hop utilizationHop flavor compoundsHis thoughts on recent research that utilization may be independent of wort gravityIBU measurement vs the perception of bitternessWhy brewers tend to be focused on numbersHow engineers shaped the early focus of brewers as the hobby evolved during the mid 1990'sAromatic hop compounds and what they do for beerGlenn’s summer job at Mad River Brewing

Thanks again to Glenn Tinseth for agreeing to do the interview!

Leave me a comment below or visit our discussion forum to leave a comment in the podcast section there.

Great News! We’ve been featured in the New and Notable podcasts on iTunes.

Subscribe on iTunes

If you are not using iTunes, you can subscribe using this feed:

http://feeds.feedburner.com/BeersmithcomHomeBrewingBlog

And finally, don’t forget to subscribe to the blog and my newsletter (use the links in the sidebar) – to get free weekly articles on home brewing.

Tagged as: Beer, IBU, glenn tinseth, hop, hops, ibus, tinseth, utilization

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Sunday, May 15, 2011

How To Aerate Your Wort

Suppose you want to make sure your fermentation doesn’t stall halfway through and you want to get a good head start on yeast growth during the initial phase of fermentation…

… well, that’s were good aeration comes into play…

After you boil your wort and cool it down to yeast pitching temperature you want to find a way to get oxygen into your wort… There are three main ways to get oxygen into your wort, splashing, agitating and direct injection.

Splashing
This is possibly the best ‘free’ method of aerating your wort. In essence what you are doing here is splashing your wort into your fermentor by pouring it hard from the kettle into your bucket. If you are using a carboy to ferment, you can pour your wort into your bottling bucket and then siphon into the carboy.

This is the method I use most frequently and has given me consistent results for low and mid-range gravity beers.

The only drawbacks to this method is that it requires a strong back to lift the kettle and splash the wort into the fermentor and it becomes exposed to airborne bacteria. In other words, this is something that should be done indoors where you can be certain the environment is mostly dust-free.

Agitating
If you can’t quite lift a bucket or a kettle to splash it, you may opt for agitating the wort instead. There are many different variations, but basically the best one is to place the lid on your bucket and shake it back and forth to ‘agitate’ the wort.

If you are using a carboy you’ll want to place a loose fitting cap or some sort of plug in the mouth of the carboy to shake it without getting the wort all over the place… most importantly, you want to place the carboy in a padded or cushioned surface area so it doesn’t break.

Rocking the fermentor is not as hard on your back, but it does require some arm strength and can be exhausting.

I like to combine the splashing and agitating techniques to get more oxygen into the wort without having to invest money in an aquarium pump or some sort of air compressor.

Another variation to agitating the wort is to use a steel whisk to whip the wort a few seconds until foam starts to foam on top… Some say this can keep your beers from getting good head formation and retention, but I haven’t noticed any negative effects on my beers.

Injection
The most efficient way to add oxygen to your wort is to inject pure oxygen directly into it. This means you must invest money into your brewing hobby and constantly replenish your source of oxygen, which is often times not needed unless you are brewing high gravity beers.

You can instead opt for injecting your wort with air using some sort of air compressor and having a sanitized tube deliver it to the bottom of the wort. The important part here is to make sure that the air or oxygen is evenly distributed throughout the wort.

If you just blow air into the wort, chances are the air bubbles will be too large and won’t dissolve into the wort. To avoid this, you’ll need some sort of diffuser like an aquarium air diffusion stone. Another thing to keep in mind is that bacteria may not survive in a pure oxygen environment but they sure can live in pure air, which means you’ll want to have an air filter in your aerating system. A HEPA filter is recommended.

So if you don’t want to spend any money, the first two techniques are great and work pretty darn well… but if your back or arms can’t handle the task, then injecting may be the way to go and it can be fairly inexpensive if you use aquarium tools to get your air source.

Jorge Loves Beer ...blogs about the age old art of deep national importance known as home brewing & loves to visit local micro-breweries to a) Drink beer b) Drink more beer c) Wink at the Sexy Gals and d) Discover how great tasting beer is made and shares it with the world... To peek inside Jorge's head and get the same Einstein-like brewing knowledge check out: How To Brew Beer

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How To Determine Amount Of Water Needed To Brew

When I first started with all grain, I ended up knocking my head against the wall trying to determine the amount of water needed to mash…

…of course this wasn’t much of a problem for steeping grains, but then again I wasn’t doing it right either…

With extract brewing, there is a simple rule of thumb to follow… ‘boil big, steep small’… but with all grain brewing, boiling big is not always what you want and mashing has to be a little more precise than just ‘small’…

So we’ll get steeping out of the way and just go with proven ratio of using less than one gallon of water per pound of grains… and this is just a rule of thumb, because really what you are trying to accomplish by keeping the ratio this way is you pH levels below 6 among other things…

Now, the amount needed for all-grain is a whole different animal altogether…

Grain Absorption
First we have to account for the amount of water the grains will soak up during the mash, which can not be drained in the lauter tun… this usually is about .1 to .18 of the initial weight of the grain… so if you mash 10 lbs of grain, you will lose about 1 to 1.8 gallons of water to the grains…

In my system this is about 1.36 gallons, but you don’t need to be that precise…

Lauter Tun Water Loss
Depending on the configuration of your false bottom, there may be water left in the lauter tun that you were not able to drain, but was not absorbed by the grains…

My system drains the wort to within 1/8? from the botton of the lauter tun so I only loose just under two cups of wort… to find out yours, you’ll have to remove the grains from your lauter tun and measure the amount of water left at the bottom…

This can be a PITA, but the good thing is that you only have to do it once and you’ll know from here on out…

Loss of Water During Boiling
Evaporation rates vary depending on how much you are boiling and your burner settings. 5-15% is about the range you’ll see, but you shouldn’t not be boiling too vigorous so the lower the evaporation rate you can get while maintaining a rolling boil the better… (there are a few exceptions though)

Shrinkage
When you cool down your wort to room temperature, you’ll see the volume decrease. This loss is usually about 4%…

You can leave this as a constant or you can exclude it and account for it by increasing your evaporation rate… so if you have 5% evaporation rate and 4% shrinkage, you could just say you lost 8-10% to evaporation…

Equipment Losses
Last, you want to account for any other equipment losses such as siphoning from your kettle to your fermentor and then to your bottling bucket or keg…

I usually include any loss of wort due to trub since I try not to siphon that into my bottling bucket…

The main thing to keep in mind here is that even with a big long formula that accounts for all of this, the amount of water needed is a mere approximation since you will have many variables…

Being precise is not the goal here… the goal is consistency and making sure you have enough water to brew with… if you are to err, you should do so by over-estimating…

So putting all of this together…

Say I want to mash 10 lbs of grain… Grain absorption will be between .1 to .18, so let’s choose .13…

That means I lose 1.3 gallons of water in the mash…

Next, I lose just under two cups of wort when lautering so we’ll say .45 gallons… so far, I’ve lost 1.75 gallons… this is what you lose during the mash which means that if you want a 5 gallon batch you need to make sure you have 6.75 gallons so far…

But now we have to account for the boil losses… so you would calculate the loss due to evaporation rate… (evaporation rate * Boil time)… in this case I’ll boil for 1 hour and expect my evaporation rate to be 5% so I will lose about 5% of my wort due to evaporation…

That means you need to add the 5% you would lose to evaporation and that is done by dividing 6.75 by 95%… so you would get about 7.11 gallons of water you need…

Next you account for shrinkage of 4%, so you divide 7.11 by 96%… and that gives us 7.4 gallons…

Again, you can combine the evaporation and shrinkage and divide 6.75 by 91% (9% loss) and you would get about 7.41 gallons, which is close enough…

Last you account for any equipment losses (siphoning, trub, etc.)… if say you lose .5 gallons… then you would add that to 7.4 and you get 7.9 gallons of water needed…

This is a lot of math, but the good thing is that if you are consistent, then you just need to worry about the losses from the mash…

If you constantly brew 5 gallon batches then you could just make sure you collect 6 to 6.5 gallons of wort and make that a constant knowing that this will yield about 5 gallons everytime…

So the only math there is to do now is the mash math which we said it was 1.75 that we lost… and add that to your constant, which should be around 6 to 6.5 gallons needed pre-boil…

So depending on our constant, our easy math would yield 7.75 to 8.25 gallons of water needed…

You can also let some brewing software do this math for you…

How do you calculate the amount of water needed?

Jorge Loves Beer ...blogs about the age old art of deep national importance known as home brewing & loves to visit local micro-breweries to a) Drink beer b) Drink more beer c) Wink at the Sexy Gals and d) Discover how great tasting beer is made and shares it with the world... To peek inside Jorge's head and get the same Einstein-like brewing knowledge check out: How To Brew Beer

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5 Ways To Brew A Clear Beer

Imagine cracking open one of your home brews and serving a nice clear beer you can see through with no floaties to ruin the ‘look’ of the beer…

… Even if you don’t use any fining agents or Irish moss…

Well, that’s what this blog post is about… getting crystal clear beers…

I remember the first time I forgot to add Irish moss to my beer at the end of the boil… I freaked out and thought I’d just ruined my beer…

I did a little bit of research and found out it was only used to help clarify the beer…

So when I went to open up my first bottle, I was expecting… well, I actually didn’t know what to expect… a cloudy beer? floaties?

Anyways… turns out the beer was just as clear as I had hoped it would be and that was one of the notes I added to my home brewing binder…

Turns out that Irish moss and finings are not the only way to clear up your beer… Here are 5 ways you can brew a clear beer…

1. Irish Moss and Finings
Irish moss is added at the end of the boil… usually within 5 minutes before the end of the boil. Finings on the other hand are usually added after fermentation is complete, a couple of days before bottling your beer.

Irish moss helps haze producing proteins coagulate during the cool down process which yields a clearer beer. Finings on the other hand help yeast as well as proteins drop out of suspension to the bottom of the fermentor, which gives you a clearer beer.

2. Cool Your Wort Quickly
The quicker you cool down your wort after the boil the more haze producing proteins you’ll coagulate during this process. A wort chiller is usually helpful to cool your wort faster, but an ice bath done correctly can also give you a nice clear beer.

This protein coagulation is what brewers like to call the “cold break”.

3. Choose A High Flocculent Yeast
Flocculation is the term used to describe yeast clumping up together. When yeast clump up together they either rise to the top of the fermentor or drop to the bottom. Most will drop to the bottom, but either way, you can siphon the beer without sucking any of the yeast into your bottling bucket or keg…

A low flocculent yeast means the yeast will remain suspended and you will get cloudy beer if you don’t use any of the other techniques.

4. Use Grains With Low Protein Levels
This is mostly a tip for all-grain brewers, although some extract brewers may come across recipes that have you steep grains high in protein. More than likely it will be a partial mash. The point is, these grains have more haze producing proteins that will show up in your beer if you don’t use one of the other techniques…

5. Cold Store Your Beer
One thing you can do to help your yeast precipitate during conditioning is to store your beer at colder temperatures. This is one way you can get clear beer even if you forget to add Irish moss during the boil…

The first beer that I brewed without Irish moss was one of the first beers I brewed before I’d gotten a temperature controller for my fridge. The thermostat in the fridge sucks as far as precision goes and I accidentally lowered the temperature more than I had intended to…

I didn’t know it at the time, but that was one of the reasons why my beer was still crystal clear even though I forgot to add Irish moss during the boil. When you are just learning how to brew beer this isn’t as straightforward so hopefully this helps you improve your brewing…

How do you clear up your beers?

Jorge Loves Beer ...blogs about the age old art of deep national importance known as home brewing & loves to visit local micro-breweries to a) Drink beer b) Drink more beer c) Wink at the Sexy Gals and d) Discover how great tasting beer is made and shares it with the world... To peek inside Jorge's head and get the same Einstein-like brewing knowledge check out: How To Brew Beer

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Sunday, April 17, 2011

What I Wouldn't Do For a Cold One


Years ago, when I was back in high school, having a beer (among other things...) was considered a rite of passage. None of us knew enough to delineate the differences between a domestic lager and an imported stout but an appreciation for that cold unique taste has stayed with me through today.

With the advent of information technology, and the subsequent entrepreneurship that naturally followed, micro-breweries became chic and when they began to market their line, more and more people rediscovered their fascination with beer. Thus started the movement to home brewing.

I have to admit, I was one of many who jumped at the chance to make my own beer. Little did I know how uninformed I was. Sure, there were lots of "home brewing kits" out there and, if you followed their instructions completely, you generally ended up with something you tried to convince yourself (and others) was the "real mccoy". But it took a lot of effort and money to finally achieve a brew worthy of enjoying and sharing with others.

Lots of people out there will tell you that the water you use is the most important ingredient; others will say it's the yeast. Still others swear it's the hops. As somewhat of a veteran at this, I offer up this bit of advice....every ingredient is critical and every step (making and cooling the wort, fermentation, bottling) are of an equal priority. Just as some people will drink light beers while others swear by darker, fuller brews, so it is with yout won taste. If is appeals to you, it's quality. If not, try again.








And for those of you (or us, since I really love sampling others' fine work) who care to check out awesome microbrews from all over or don't have the time to go at it yourselves, check out www.americandiversions.com and click your way to true refreshment.


Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Making Your Own Beer - What You Must Know Before You Start Brewing


You and your family recently were to go to a micro-brewery where you experienced a number of beers. There was one you fell in love with, your brand new favorite. A beer you merely have to have in your own fridge at all times. Driving home you decide that rather then go to the brewery every time you are struck with a raving you're going to create a home brewery and start making your own beer inside your basement. Making your own beer guarantees you'll always have your favored beer on hand, and that you will not waste precious gas driving backwards and forwards to the brewery. Well before you rush out to buy a home brewing system, empty beer bottles, and other ingredients, you will find some home brewing basics you should know before you start making your own beer.

Speak with Your family

A valuable home brewing tip to keep in mind is before getting started is communication. It does not matter if the very first batch of your own beer is great enough to be marketed world wide, your own partner won't be pleased if they're constantly stumbling over your home brewing system, or cleaning spilled beer off the counters. Make certain your whole family is okay you making your own beer at home.

Begin with an easy recipe

You will be amazed at how many recipes you can find for beers you can make in your own house. You can find them everywhere, in magazines, in recipe books, and over the internet; some micro-breweries will handout a few of their recipes. Just because you've got a recipe doesn't mean you have to work with it. Home brewing your own beer is to not get in over your head, get a recipe that is simple and clearly written. It may help if your first recipe is for a beer that is easily available to you, that way you can buy samples to compare the flavor of the commercially made brand towards the batch of your own beer.

Get some help

One of the basics to making your own beer would be to not try out it totally by yourself in the beginning. You and everybody around you will be happier if you find someone who has previous brewing experience to help guide you through making your own beer at home. This person ought to be somebody that can help you setup your home brewing system, and talk you through the ins and outs of your very first recipe. They will also be a person who will enjoy sampling the fruits of your labors. In case you are unable to find somebody to help you making your own beer, try looking at the web, there are various home brewing websites where you can find some help.

Don't give up

One of the tips in making your own beer is that you need to keep in mind is to not expect perfection the initial time. The Sistine Chapel was not Michelangelo's first art project, he had a ton of knowledge before tackling that particular task. You will probably must brew a number of batches of beer before you're able to perfectly duplicate your favorite recipe. If the first batch isn't ideal keep working at it, just keep making your own beer following the basic home brewing facts and you'll eventually succeed.








The author of this article, Peter Waterman, writes on his website HomeBeerMakers.com about his greatest hobby, making his own beer. Read his articles about plate wort chiller for example a stainless steel therminator wort chiller.


The History and Evolution of Microbreweries


Most commonly, brewing itself means the production of malt beverages, like beer or ale, by grinding and boiling the malt and hops and fermenting the resulting mixture with yeast. This art of brewing established itself with the advent of agricultural societies and cultivation of grains such as wheat and barley back in ancient times. Microbrewery, however, is a rather modern term that originated in the late seventies in United Kingdom and was originally considered to be a brewery with limited capacity. Initially this capacity was limited to less than 3,000 barrels but due to increase in popularity, it increased to as much as 15,000 barrels per year by the end of 1980.

Back in its early days, micro brewed beer was often referred to bear that was mainly produced in homes or small pubs. During the early parts of the twentieth century, a lot of microbreweries were forced to closure and bankruptcy, especially in the U.S, mainly due to the prohibition of alcohol and lack of resources. Mainstream beer production was limited to large corporations only resulting in a very uniform tasting beer. But consequently, with the failure of prohibition law and the need for a larger variety of beer, people began taking the concept of home brewing to a larger scale. As popularity of these products grew, many such locations sprang up across the globe giving rise to the concept of microbreweries. These places commonly had bars built along with them, giving an opportunity to sell the product directly.

Microbreweries make it possible for the producers to create their own unique concoctions and make different experiments with flavor of the beer. Beer often looses its flavor and freshness due to excessive storage. That is why hundreds and thousands of beer lovers from around the globe have come to love the taste and feel of the beer brewed in microbreweries mainly due to their unique touches and freshness. Micro brewed beer tastes richer and has a darker color tone to it as compared to commercially and mass-produced variety. That is why the concept of microbreweries is not restricted only to the pub. Just for the love of it, a lot of beer aficionados brew their own beer at home too.

Though microbreweries do not give any real competition or pose an alarming threat to major beer brewing companies as they claim a very dismal market share when compared to these giants. Still, their influence and uniqueness has caused these major market players to open their own microbreweries based on their brand name. In some cases, these companies have been forced to buy the local microbreweries outright.

Thus microbreweries have carved their own niche in the market. Thanks to them, people now have a choice of beer they want to drink. Either they can buy the brand available in the locality, visit the nearest pub for a drink or brew their own masterful blend at home. It provides a great opportunity to explore different recipes and do experimentation in brewing rich and hearty beer.








Emilie is an article writer and freelance product reviewer. To see more articles written by Emilie please visit http://truehepafilter.org including the newest reviews of True Hepa Filters


Home Brew Shops Are Often Little Brewing History Museum


If you want to know about home brewing and home brewing history, the best place is probably not in a museum or library. The best place to go for information and to get a feel of home brewing in the old days is to go to one of your local home brew shops. If you have never been in one of these stores you will be surprised because the moment you step in, it looks like time stood still. Many home brew stores are often part of a small brewery that produces there own wines, beers and/or even some non alcoholic beverages. Of course they also sell supplies for home brewers but they also use there own equipment to introduce others in the craft of brewing. They often sell their beverages in the shop and supply the local pup and party's with their products.

Many of these home brew shops and adjoining micro breweries where started by home brewers who made their hobby into work. Many just started making beer or wine and developed a good recipe that not only their family and friends liked to buy but also the friends of their friends, until the day came that complete strangers were asking for that special brew. After they acquired the licences to sell their products and found a good location to start there shop they were in business. These kind of shops are often the best ones to get good advice because they have been where you are at this moment.

Home brew shop owners of the kind we described above, are also the ones that at some point in there brewing career started collecting historical brewing stuff. Even though not much is changed in the brewing methods over the years the materials have changed, and have become more modern. Home beer brewing has only been legal in the USA since 1978 but in the period before the prohibition brewing at home was a common practice. Much of the home brewing equipment got lost during the prohibition and this is a reason that many collectors also collect brewing equipment from Europe and especially from Germany.

Germany is an important country when it comes to beer brewing, most of the popular aroma hops that are used grow extremely well in Germany. And because of this Germany is a real beer country. The aromatic hops are the most important ingredient of beer because the hops provide the beer's taste. Because hops need to be fresh when you put them in your brew and they dry fairly quickly most home brew shops sell plugs or pellets. The taste of the beer can turn almost rancid, when you use old hops the hops from pellets have a much longer shelf life.

In the USA, the Prohibition of Alcohol lasted from 1920 until 1933 and when the ban was lifted it took until 1978 before a new law made it possible to brew beer at home again. In the years between 1933 and 1978 home brew shops were only allowed to sell materials for making wine and liquors. And even today home brewers can only produce 100 gallons of beer per person over 21 and with a maximum of 200 gallons a year.








Drew Brown has one hobby and he loves to share it with the world. He just loves to brew his own beverages. www.brewingyourown.com


Monday, April 11, 2011

Home Brewers Are Still Making Small Beer


Miller Brewing Company launched the first reduced alcohol beer, "Miller Lite" in 1973. Now, almost 40 years later, almost every major and micro brewing company offers a reduced alcohol product and it accounts for an ever growing percentage of the annual 180 million barrel US market.

To be considered a light, or reduced alcohol, beer must contain no more than 3.5% "alcohol by volume" (ABV). This compares with "regular" beer that, generally, contains between 5% and 6%. A recent testing of the best selling US light beer, Bud Light showed it to have about 100 calories in a 12 oz. can compared to about 142 in Budweiser's regular beer. The spelling "Lite" is a trademark of Miller brewing company and should not be used to refer to reduced alcohol beer in general.

The states of Utah, Oklahoma, Minnesota, Kansas, and Colorado will allow convenience stores and supermarkets to only sell beer with ABV of 3.2%. Higher alcohol content beer may be sold only in liquor stores licensed by the state. Interestingly, Oklahoma further mandates that beer over 3.2% ABV must be sold only at room temperature. Some classify this reduced alcohol beer as "near-beer" but that term originated much earlier, during the prohibition era.

Originally, "near-beer" was a name for malt based beverages with little or no alcoholic content. These brews sprang up as soon as prohibition outlawed the brewing of any alcoholic beverage. These brews were officially classified as "cereal beverages" to distinguish them from the illegal recipes. These brews proved to be popular with the public and about 300 million gallons were produced in the early 1920s and provided a much needed revenue source for many breweries.

One of the most important reasons for near-beer's popularity was that it was easily spiked with grain alcohol and soon acquired yet another nickname; "needle beer" because of a needle was often used to inject the alcohol through the cork.

Preceding near-beer was "small beer" which was widely produced both in colonial America and even earlier in Europe. Small beer is an extremely low alcohol drink that is flavored with different ingredients such as molasses. It was often served to children and servant along with meals, including breakfast. At the time, it was a safer drink than water because of the brewing process which boiled the wort, which killed the water born diseases of the time such as cholera.

Small beer has fallen out of favor with today's drinkers and is mostly brewed by home brewers and some microbreweries. However, Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco still produces "Anchor Small Beer" which is listed with an ABV of 3.3%.








Instead of searching the online beer sites endlessly for information about home beer making, simply download the ebook Brew Beer Bible found at Brew Beer Today.com.

The Brew Beer Bible is inexpensive, has an iron clad money back guarantee if it does not meet expectations, and offers step by step instructions on how to always get the best tasting beer out of your home brewery.


Price of Beer Getting You Down - Home Brewing Kits Discussed


Indeed, I guess it goes without saying that not all home brewing kits are created equal, and it also goes without saying that if you want to produce a quality beer with a decent head, one you could float a bottle cap on, as if it was the first beer out of the keg, then you need to pay attention. You must study the various home brewing kits, and understand the chemistry and physics behind how it all works and why.

Many folks like the concept of DIY beer, and they want to re-invent the wheel. Okay fine, but there have been 100s and 100s of years behind the making of beer, so let's not get too cocky here. Secondly, you'd be surprised how well some of the simplest of systems work and how easy it really is. If you screw it up believe me you will know it, as it will taste like absolute crap, and you'll kick yourself for not following instructions.

Why not do this, go online and look on Google Images searching "home brew kits" - and see the different schematics and designs. Choose one that is simple, and then go to that website and see the cost and see if that is in your budget, then determine if you really want to be the guy on the block who has his own back-yard micro-brewery.

One thing that many home brewers have found is that the odor often offends the neighbors, so if you live in a neighborhood where everyone lives very close together, you could have issues. Also, there are health rules about brewing for anything other than self-consumption, so don't be thinking you can recoup costs by selling your excess, it doesn't work that way, plus you are setting yourself up for legal liability anyway.

If after you do all this research and you still decide you want to go for it, then follow the instructions and do it their way first. Only after you have experience, and knowledge of the complete process should you try to go and modify anything. Oh yes, and one last thing, home brewing of beer is quite a bit different than making your own bio-fuel for your car, so don't be thinking you can use that same system to make both beer and fuel, okay?

Lastly, please check your local ordinances, as many cities, counties, and some states have restrictions, and/or rules against home brewing, and if you get arrested for breaking the law, you will be placed into a gated community with no beer at all!








By Lance Winslow


Malt Extract Brewing: The Best Option for Beginning Home Brewers


If you want to get into the home brewing scene, then you should take advantage of extract malt brewing because it is by far the easiest option if you are new to brewing beer at home. Because you do not have to worry about the mashing process, there is less room for error. This is not to say that extract brews cannot be messed up, but the odds of them turning out favorable are better than they are with all grain brewing.

In its most basic form, beer needs 4 ingredients to achieve proper fermentation, and ultimately become alcoholic. You need malted barley, hops, water, and yeast. When you purchase an extract kit, you don't need to worry about the mashing process because the kits include either liquid or dried malt extract. Not only does this help you to not make mistakes, but it also saves a lot of time. Which if you are as busy as I'm not, then this is a good thing.

You may have read that extract brewing limits your ability to have complete control over your brew, and while this is true, you need to gain a thorough understanding of the brewing process before you worry about becoming the head brewmaster of your own micro-brewery. What makes brewing with extracts so nice is that you can slowly incorporate the use of grain into your brewing process.

Brewing your own beer is like any other hobby in that you need to start at the basic level, and then move to more advanced techniques as you gain more experience. I think that you will find home brewing to be a very fun hobby, and as soon as you are producing delicious beer that none of the grocery store brands can compete with, you will want to keep on brewing. Another advantage is that chicks will dig you, men will admire you, and you can rub the fact that you brew your own beer into the faces of all of those that you went to school with, who eventually went on to have successful careers and lives. Oh sweet, sweet revenge.

So, get out there, and start brewing!








If you would like more information on brewing and brew kits, then visit my page on home brewing beer. You won't be disappointed.


Lake District Breweries


I hear a rumour that there are 28 breweries in Cumbria. Certainly, I ran out of fingers AND toes listing the ones that come readily to mind! I tried to come up with a Top Ten from that fabulous long list, but I'm afraid it just wouldn't get shorter than fourteen. There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages to stay in near these breweries, it'd be crazy to miss out. So, in no particular order, enjoy!

1. Keswick Brewery
Thanks to the Keswick Brewery, Brewery Lane is once more alive with the sounds and smells of a proper craft brewery. Established in 2006, the Keswick Brewery is located on the site of the town's Victorian brew house, producing a number of popular beers all named 'Thirst - something': Thirst Run (4.2% ABV), a golden pale ale; Thirst Fall (4.8% ABV), a chocolatey, malty bitter; Thirst Noel (6% ABV), a dark, rich, malty ale and Thirst Rescue (3.7% ABV ), a citrussy, golden bitter that makes a donation to the Mountain Rescue.

There are brewery tours all year round with a charitable donation from each tour divided equally between the Climate Contribution Fund and Red Squirrel Conservation. The Keswick Brewery's beers are available from the on-site shop and many pubs in northern Cumbria.

2. The Strands Brewery
The Strands Brewery is based at the Strands Hotel public house in Nether Wasdale. They brew only for their own use, producing a number of beers which are nonetheless favourites with the CAMRA crew. The pub was runner-up in West Cumbria CAMRA's Pub of the Year competition in 2009.

Their most famous beer is 'Errrrrrm' (apologies if the incorrect number of 'r's are quoted!), a name developed as an apparent absence of creativity inspired a very unusual moniker! Errrrrrm (3.8% ABV) is a light, hoppy, amber bitter. Still lacking name inspiration when they brewed a delicious dark, smooth, porter-style ale, the pub's regulars submitted suggestions and T'Errrrrminator (5% ABV) was born.

3. Hardknott Brewery
Until recently, Hardknott's brewer was the landlord of the Woolpack Inn at Boot in Eskdale, where he brewed a few interesting numbers from a tiny set-up behind the pub. The Hardknott Brewery seceded from the pub earlier this year, setting up new premises in Millom. The Woolpack still stocks their brews, though (phew!). News is still thin on the ground since the relocation, but Millom seems to have been very good for their creativity. Try their Continuum (4.0% ABV) 'there is always time and space for good beer' and Dark Energy (4.9% ABV) 'without it, the cosmos would be inexplicable'. So there.

4. Coniston Brewery
Home to the very popular Bluebird Bitter, the Coniston Brewery is based at back of the Black Bull pub in Coniston. They've won a lot of awards, and reckon that Bluebird is the bestselling bottled beer at a certain regional supermarket! They supply a lot of pubs, including The Manor Arms at Broughton-in-Furness and the Kirkstile Inn at Loweswater.

Bluebird Bitter (3.6% ABV), named after Donald Campbell's ill-fated boat, is a very pale ale with a hint of orangeyness. Old Man Ale (4.2% ABV) is something a bit different; complex, chocolatey, fruity and bitter. At this time of year, perhaps we should try Winter Warmer Blacksmith's Ale (5.0% ABV), a rich, strong ale very reminiscent of Christmas pudding.

5. Jennings Brewery
Founded in Cockermouth in 1828, Jennings is by far the largest brewery in Cumbria. Aficionados were shocked when the brewery was taken over by Wolverhampton & Dudley in 2005, later migrating to Marston's. But the consensus is that Jennings remains Jennings, continuing to brew all the old favourites on site right here in Cockermouth. They also gained brownie points by collecting 10p in the pound for every pint sold in the aftermath of last year's cataclysmic floods, raising a tremendous ?178k. They too were flooded, but brewing again by spring of this year.

Favourites are Jennings Bitter, Cumberland Ale, Cocker Hoop and Snecklifter with seasonal specials including Yan T'yan Tethera, Tom Fool, Cross Buttock, Crag Rat and World's Biggest Liar (Jennings sponsor the annual competition, based in the Santon Bridge Inn in Wasdale). Their beers are widely available in pubs and by the bottle.
There are brewery tours throughout the year, with sampling. There is a bar and tea room on site.

6. Stringers Beer
This micro-brewery in Ulverston on the west Cumbrian coast makes lovely beer, but that isn't all there is to get excited about. They're powered by Cumbrian nature - wind, wave, hydro and solar energy.

Popular brews include their Champion Stout (4% ABV), jet-black and, for a stout, very quaffable. Their West Coast Blond (4.4% ABV) is a flavoursome, floral ale made with blond hops on the west coast of Cumbria - no Californians here! They make a number of specials from time to time, including this summer's Sunbird, a curiously tangerine-y number; we look forward to their Christmas brew.

7. Barngates Brewery
Based at the Drunken Duck between Ambleside and Coniston, Barngates is lucky to have its own water supply, which adds its distinctive flavour to their brews. All their beers are named after various pub pets, so it's a good job for all of us that there have been quite a few!

Try Cracker Ale (3.9% ABV), a clean, smooth ale, named after the pub's favourite Jack Russell, Cracker. Aaah! Chester's Strong &Ugly (5.2% ABV) is popular with CAMRA and at the local beer festivals.
Red Bull Terrier(4.8% ABV), named after a dog called Brutus, is a proper winter ale; tangy, spicy and malty. It won three awards at the latest SIBA North Beer Competition.

8. Hesket Newmarket
If you're scrabbling around in your brain thinking, 'I've heard that name somewhere... something to do with Prince Charles', then you're spot-on. It doesn't really have any royal connections other than the fact that Prince Charles is very happy to support this community-owned co-operative, and often pops in when he's in the Lakes.

The brewery is based at the back of the Old Crown pub in Hesket Newmarket, near Caldbeck, and with one noble (and delicious) exception, names its beers after fells. Try Doris' 90th Birthday (4.3% ABV), a fruity number with butterscotch and bitter flavours; Catbells Pale Ale (5% ABV), an easy-drinking pale ale; Great Cockup Porter (3.0% ABV), dark and chocolatey, and Old Carrock Strong Ale (6.0% ABV), with a rich, Christmassy flavour.

Evening tours of the brewery, with a curry at the pub next door, are available all year round.

9. Ennerdale Brewery
Those feeling the loss of the old Whitehaven Brewing Company will be happy to hear that it has been re-born as the Ennerdale Brewery, based on a farm near Cleator. Using skills gained as a head brewer for Jennings, the Ennerdale Brewery has launched a number of beers all with 'Ennerdale' in the name: Darkest Ennerdale Best Bitter (4.2% ABV), Ennerdale Copper (3.8% ABV), Ennerdale Blonde Golden Ale (3.8% ABV), Ennerdale Breeze Mild (3.9% ABV) and Ennerdale Spice (4.2% ABV). It's early days yet for the Ennerdale Brewery - hence no website - but it's looking promising!

10. Yates Brewery
Following the buyout of Jennings, Yates's became the oldest independent brewery in Cumbria. Based at Westnewton in northern Cumbria, Yates' beers are widely stocked in pubs throughout the county and in bottles at Booths' supermarkets. They also have an on-line shop.

Try Yates' Bitter (3.7% ABV), a golden, complex bitter, or their Solway Sunset (4.3% ABV), a golden beer designed to bring to mind an evening at the west coast seaside town, Allonby. Their Christmas number, Yates' Best Cellar (4.6% ABV) became so popular that this old-fashioned, flavoursome beer is now available all year round in the bottle.

11. Bitter End Brewing Co.
Since Jennings was bought out, Bitter End takes great pride in calling itself the largest independent brewery in Cockermouth. They brew six regular beers and a number of specials throughout the year.
Try their Lakeland Bitter (3.8% ABV), a light copper bitter with a sweet, biscuity character, or Lakeland Amber (4.0% ABV), a pale, refreshing beer. Their Lakeland Honey Beer (5.0% ABV) is popular amongst beer-lovers, with a pale golden colour, floral hops and - you guessed it - a hint of honey flavour.

12. Cumbrian Legendary Ales
This Hawkshead-based brewery gained its name producing beers named after legendary Cumbrian characters - Wicked Jimmy, Buttermere Beauty, King Dunmail and Croglin Vampire - but since its takeover by Loweswater Brewery last year has concentrated on producing equally top quality, but more normally named, beers.

Try Loweswater Gold (4.3%), recently voted Best Gold Ale in Cumbria; Langdale (4.0% ABV), a bitter with strong orangey notes, or Melbreak (3.7% ABV), a quaffable bitter with lots of body. Rannerdale Robin (4.0% ABV), a rich, malty Christmas beer, is due out in December.

13. Ulverston Brewing Company
Fed up of brewing in their garage after Ulverston's only native brewery, Hartley's, had closed, the owners of Ulverston Brewing Co. finally launched earlier this year. Many of their beer's names pay tribute to Stan Laurel, who was born in the town.

Try Another Fine Mess (4.0% ABV), a pale, hoppy, citrus-y beer, or Lonesome Pine, another pale beer with sweet, honey notes. Fra Diavolo (4.3% ABV) is a fiendish little number with a dark, rich flavour with the bitterness of chocolate and express. Yum!

The Brewery accepts visitors at most times, and can also arrange more formal tours.

14. Beckstones Brewery
Based at The Green between Millom and Broughton-in-Furness, Beckstones makes characterful beers that are worth hunting out at nearby pubs including the Punchbowl at The Green and the King's Head at Broughton.

Their Leat (3.6% ABV) - Cumbrian dialect for 'light' - is a thirst-quenching fruity number. Black Dog Freddy (3.9% ABV) - another beer named after a dog! - is a mild which won a couple of awards when it was launched in 2008. And we all know when it's Beer O'Clock (3.9%) - the perfect time for a pale golden beer with lots of hops.

Talking of which... I think it might indeed be Beer O'Clock. I'll have a pint, please! There are several Lake District cottages near these fantastic breweries, why not come and visit one?








Lake District cottages


Thursday, April 7, 2011

Using a Hydrometer for Beer Brewing

A hydrometer is one of the simplest tools a home brewers has at their disposal, but also an important one so I thought I would spend a few moments this week discussing how to properly use a hydrometer and also how to adjust your hydrometer readings for temperature.  Most brewers rely on a hydrometer to determine their original and final gravity, and more advanced users will also track mash gravity and end of fermentation gravity.

A hydrometer is a very simple device that looks like a large thermometer.  When you immerse it in wort or finished beer it sinks to a varying degree depending on how dense the wort is and provides a reading of the specific gravity.  Most hydrometers used by home brewers are scaled for specific gravity readings, which is technically a unitless measure that generally ranges from 1.000 for water to 1.100 or higher for high gravity barley wines.  An average beer might have a starting gravity between 1.040 and 1.050 and a final gravity around 1.010.

The reason specific gravity is unitless is that is is simply a measure of the density of the liquid relative to water – so 1.000 would be the density of distilled water, and most wort or beer has a gravity slightly above that of water (1-10% higher actually).  To calculate the specific gravity of a liquid sample with known density, we just divide its density by the density of water – that is the specific gravity value.

Many professional brewers use hydrometers that measure in degrees Plato, which is another density system developed by Bohemian scientist Karl Balling in 1843 and later improved by Fritz Plato.  This scale is a measure of density relative relative to the percent sucrose in the water, so a reading of 11 degrees plato would be equivalent in density to water with 11% sucrose dissolved in it.

Converting from plato to specific gravity is not strictly linear, but most brewers use the approximation of 1 degree plato = 4 points specific gravity, so 12 degrees plato would correspond to 48 points of specific gravity, or a measure of 1.048 approximately.  For significantly larger values the approximation starts to drift off, so its best to use a calculator at that point (such as the one in BeerSmith).

Use of a hydrometer is a pretty simple affair.  You typically remove a small amount of sample wort, place it in a clear sample cylinder and then immerse the hydrometer in the liquid.  Read the gravity reading from the scale on the hydrometer where it crosses the water-air boundary.  There will be a slight curve along the water-air line (called the meniscus), so if you want to be really accurate you should take the reading at the lowest point in that air-water curve (the bottom of the meniscus).

One final cautionary note – many beginners tend to take the sample in the tube that the hydrometer was sold in.  You need to be a bit cautious when doing so as the tube is quite small and the hydrometer will sometimes stick to the side a bit which could give you an inaccurate reading.  Ideally you want it floating freely in the wort, which is why more advanced brewers will purchase a small sample vessel or use another vessel to hold the sample.

Hydrometers are all calibrated to be accurate at a standard temperature.  For most home brewing hydrometers, the calibration temperature is 60F (20C), though a few laboratory hydrometers are calibrated to a different temperature (usually 68F/20C).   The calibration temperature is usually printed on the scale of your hydrometer in really small letters.

Manufacturers calibrate the hydrometer to be accurate at their calibration temperature, and its often a good idea to validate that by cooling a sample of distilled water to that calibration temperature and verifying that your hydrometer reads 1.000.

If you use your hydrometer at another temperature other than the calibration temperature you should add or subtract a small adjustment to get an accurate reading.  In practice, if you are working near room temperature the adjustment is relatively small (typically one point).  However when you measure hot wort (such as wort coming from the mash tun or boiler) the difference can be significant and you should adjust your hydrometer for the calibration temperature.

The formula I use in BeerSmith is:

sg = sg_measured + sg_measured * (1.628E-5 * (tc – t) – 5.85E-6 * (tc*tc – t*t) + 1.532E-8 (tc*tc*tc – t*t*t))

where sg_measured is the measured value, tc is the calibration temperature and t is the temperature (both in celsuis the sample was measured at.  This gives a pretty accurate measure, but its not much fun to calculate by hand, so there is a hydrometer calculation tool in BeerSmith to do this adjustment for you.

Thanks for visiting the BeerSmith Home Brewing Blog.  I hope you will subscribe for regular articles, and hope you have a great week!

Tagged as: Beer, Homebrewing, brewing, homebrew, hydrometer, temperature adjustment

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What is Micro Brew?: Understanding Beer


Micro brewed beer is often used to refer to beer that is brewed in the comforts of one's home or in small pubs. The term started in the 70s in the UK to describe single units that make their own beer or traditional cask ale.

Before, the term micro brew was only used to characterize output volume and brewery size. In the US, it used to refer to breweries that produces less than 15,000 beer barrels in a year. But, now, it is fast becoming known as a next generation approach to beer brewing and experimentation, as well as customized service.

Beer aficionados will tell you that some of the world's best brews are the ones done in microbreweries. Because makers of micro brew beer have the liberty to create their own concoctions and make experiments with flavor, a number of microbreweries gave starting banking on this popularity and sprouting all over the world.

If you ask micro brew fans what makes this kind of beer so great, they will most definitely tell you it's the distinct flavor. You see, microbrewed beer usually tastes richer and darker than its commercially and mass-produced counterparts. And because each pub or home microbrewery is likely to have its own distinct twist to beer making, you can be assured of a variety of flavors you are bound to taste.

Micro brew is not just for pubs, as said earlier. Some people prefer to brew their own beer at home, for personal pleasure. Home brews are perfect for private parties. In fact, some beer makers even use a home microbrewery as an excuse to invite people over.

However, it is important to note that not all states have legalized microbrewing. To know more information about this, as well as how to start your own micro brew setup at home, you might want to check out the American Homebrewers Association. They have a list of restrictions and how-tos on their Web site, which can help you get started or keep you in control.

You can also join a local micro brew club if there is on in your area. If you're a bit antisocial, this might be the best place to start with because you deal with a fewer number of people. You can exchange notes and compare micro brew flavors with them, and even do joint projects on new tastes. To find out if there's one in your vicinity, check the local directory.

Making your own beer or tasting one that's customized makes a whole lot of difference to the beer drinking experience. If you previously thought the beers you buy from the supermarket are all there is, then you missed so much.

However, it's not too late to start introducing yourself to the wonder that is micro brew. Who knows, you might actually learn to love it more than the commercial fare -- just like any other person who has made the switch before you. Enjoy!








Khieng 'Ken' Chho - Micro Brew
For related articles and other resources, vsit Ken's website: http://microbrew.1w3b.net


Monday, February 28, 2011

Are You Ready For Your Own Micro Home Brewery?


My buddy, Chuck, told me that starting your own micro home brewery is just like pursuing our music. You need to have the basic knowledge, tools, and lots of passion. And, like any hobby, you need to set aside time and gather up your patience because, I soon found out, that most first-time home beer brewers mess up a brew or two until they settle down to using the right recipe and the right equipment. Chuck made sense because messing up while learning new songs is the same.

As for equipment, I can relate to this, being a musician, like Chuck. I know what it takes to find the right guitar, amplifier, and pedals to get a kick butt sound and I know it takes the three P's - Patience, Passion, Practice - to get good at it. It's exactly the same with brewing beer at home. If you stick with it, eventually you will get good at it. You will be impressing family and friends with your own beers!

Choosing the right equipment is simple or complex or somewhere in between. It all depends on how many people you will be sharing your beers with and how much of that beer you personally intend on drinking. Now, I must say, drink responsibly and share wisely. You really don't want to go overboard especially when it comes to your guests. For obvious legal reasons, you want to limit how much beer you and they drink. No drunk driving, please, and keep all alcohol out of the reach of children!

First time home beer brewers need just basic equipment to get started. Brewing pots come in stainless steel, ceramic, and so forth. Start with a 12 quart brewing pot to allow you some room to make mistakes to tweak the recipe to perfect it.

Just like a restaurant chef, you need a measuring scale because ingredients need to be pretty exact when brewing beer. If you try to guess, you will just ruin the brew and have to start from scratch. This is the need for patience I mentioned earlier. The details can get frustrating at first. You also need a thermometer to keep tabs on the cooking cycle because you can easily ruin a batch if the mix becomes too hot or not hot enough. Also, make sure you use a stainless steel spoon for stirring. Due to possible impurities, a wood spoon will not do at all. Always make sure that your kettle and all utensils are clean so you do not contaminate the brewing cycle.

During the brewing process you will need hops and grains that will be placed in the pot during brewing. These may be available in your local area. If not, there are sources on line who sell beermaking ingredients and equipment. You will need bottles and bottling equipment as well. These likely will have to ordered on line or out of a catalog and shipped to you.

This initial investment in equipment will pay for itself in the long run because you no longer have to buy your beer at the distributor! Brewing equipment literally lasts for years so it is likely a one time expense. In fact, you can even reuse the bottles once you have enjoyed their contents. The only ongoing expense is the hops and grains. The hops and grains are pretty inexpensive, a lot cheaper than buying commercial beers.

A key consideration is what type of beer do you like? Maybe you are an ale drinker? Maybe you like dark stout beer? Maybe you prefer light beer? As a home beer brewer, you decide what kinds of brews your little home pub is going to serve. You can have a variety.

When I was at Chuck's I tried his non-alcoholic beer because I was driving. I have to say, I could not tell the difference between that and regular beer as far as taste. I do like the taste of beer but I really don't care for the "buzz" or the hangover from regular beer and I never drink and drive. Today, two beers practically put you over the legal limit as far as DUI laws are concerned. You can give your guests a choice which is always a good idea because, if they get drunk and drive, you can be held legally responsible in many states in the U.S. Of course, you should keep your beers out of the reach of children as well.

I would not hazard a guess as to how much money you will save with your own home brewed beers. That all depends on how much beer you personally drink and how many people you will be serving on a regular basis. You can brew as little or as much beer as you need. You can brew more for those Summer picnics and holiday parties and less for your own use. It's up to you. My buddy Chuck says he saves about $2,000 a year brewing his own beer.

Finally, you also need to be aware that your friends and relatives might come to think of you as their personal bootlegger. That's a term from prohibition days when people brewed "bathtub gin" at home and sold it in the neighborhood. If they start knocking on the door, make sure you charge them something to cover the brewing costs and to get your bottles back. Trust me. I am told that people, even friends and relatives, will try to take advantage of you.








There are blogs dedicated to micro home brewing where you can get helpful tips and hints. To get you started, visit The Micro Homebrewery Blog right now while you are thinking about starting your own micro home brewery.


Beer - Let's Taste it For a While


Beer, hearing the term mind directly strikes the scene of a beer pub where people are holding mugs filled with beer and the foam is coming out of the glasses. Beer is not a new term since time immemorial, world's most widely consumed and probably the oldest of all alcoholic beverages. Beer is the third most popular drink after tea and coffee. Beer is prepared by brewing and fermentation of starches which are derived from the cereal grains particularly malted barley but wheat, corn and rice are also used. Generally beer is flavoured by the addition of hops which adds a bitter taste to beer and also acts as a preservative. Apart from hops some herbs and fruits are also used for flavouring the beer. Literature from the olden times suggests that there was a Code of Hammurabi which was concerned with the laws of regulating beer and beer parlours and the Hymn to Ninkasi was a prayer to Mesopotamian goddess of beer serving both the functions of prayer as well as remembering the recipe of beer preparation. Presently, brewing industry is a multinational business providing employment to thousands of individuals in the form of small pubs to large regional breweries.

There are two categories of beer. First is the pale lager and the other regionally distinct ales which share further different varieties like pale ale, stout and brown ale. The alcohol content of beer is around 4% to 6% alcohol by volume (abv) which may be sometimes less than 1% abv to 20% in rare cases. Beer forms a part of culture of beer drinking nations and is also found to be associated with the festivals as well as with games. Beer is one of the oldest known beverages prepared since 9000 BC and has its record in the history of ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. The chemical evidence of beer belongs to circa 3500-3100 BC from the site of Godin Tepe in the Zagros Mountains of western Iran. In China around 7000 BC beer was prepared from rice by malting. Any substance containing carbohydrate like the sugars and the starch usually undergoes fermentation and this laid down the foundation of beer production throughout the world. The production of beer and bread had generally resulted in the development of human civilization as well as technology but this fact is argued strongly by various scientists.

Beer was spread through Europe by the Germanic and Celtic tribes around 3000 BC back and at that time people don't call it beer. Beer produced before the Industrial revolution was on domestic scale but today beer production is a global business and according to a report of 2006 around 133 billion liters of beer is sold every year which costs billions of dollars. The process of making beer is termed as brewing. A edifice dedicated strictly for making beer is called as brewery although beer can be prepared in homes also as known from the ancient literature. A company producing beer is called as a beer company. Beer produced on domestic scale is termed as home brewing regardless of the fact how it is prepared. Beer production is strongly under the rules and regulations of the government of the country and the producers have to deposit the taxes and fulfill the necessary documents in order to run a brewery successfully.

The main purpose of brewing is to convert starch into sugary liquid called wort and later on this wort is converted into alcoholic beverage called beer which is fermented by the action of yeast. The first step in making beer is mashing where the starch source (malted barley) is mixed with hot water in a mash tun. Mashing process is complete is 1-2 hours and during this time period the starch gets converted into sugars and becomes sweet in taste. This sweet liquid now called wort is drained off form the grains. Now the grains are washed and this step is called sparging. Sparging helps the brewer to obtain as much as fermentable liquid from the grains as possible. The process of filtering spent grain from the wort and sparged water is designated as wort separation. The traditional process of wort separation is called as lautering where the grain itself acts as filter medium. Modern breweries use filter frames for this step. The sparge obtained from second and third run contains weaker wort and thus weaker beer. Brewing with several runnings is called as patrigyle brewing.

The sweet wort obtained from the sparged water is now kept in the kettle and boiled for 1 hour. Boiling evaporates the water of the wort but the sugars and other components remain as such and this allows efficient use of starch sources in beer. Boiling also inactivates the enzymes left after the mashing process. Hops are now added as source of flavor, bitterness and aroma. Hops may be added more than one time during boiling. If the hops are boiled for a longer time then the bitterness of beer increases and the flavor and the aroma content of beer declines. After boiling the hopped wort is allowed to cool and is now ready for yeast action. During fermentation the hopped wort becomes beer and this step may take a week to months depending upon the type of yeast and the strength of beer. When fermentation is over the yeast settles leaving the clear beer. In some cases fermentation is carried out in two steps, primary and secondary. Once beer is produced through primary fermentation it is transferred to a new vessel and is allowed to undergo secondary fermentation for certain period. Secondary fermentation is generally used when beer requires long term storage before packaging or greater clarity. When beer has fermented it is transferred into casks for cask ale or in aluminium cans or kegs or bottles depending upon the varieties.

The key ingredients of beer are water, a starch source like the malted barley and brewer's yeast which is responsible for fermentation and flavouring agents like the hops. Apart from malted barley other sources of starch may be used like the corn or rice and then the term adjunct is used as they serve as a lower cost substitute for barely. Other inferior sources of starch include sorghum, millet, cassava root in Africa, potato in Brazil and agave in Mexico and other nations. Grain bill is the total amount of starch source in the beer making process. The major composition of beer comes from water. Water of different regions has different mineral components so the beer prepared from different regions shares unusual taste and variety. Water in Dublin is hard so it is best suited for the production of stout, Pilzen has soft water so famous for the production of pale lager. Water from Burton is rich in gypsum so is suitable for the production of pale ale. Sometimes the brewers add gypsum to the local water for the production of pale ale and this process is termed as Burtonisation.

The starch source in beer is the key source which provides the material to be fermented and is responsible for the strength and flavor of beer. Most common starch source used for beer preparation is the malted grain. Gran is generally malted by soaking it in water and is then allowed to start germination and finally the half germinated grain is allowed to dry in a kiln. Malting process produces enzymes which are responsible for the conversion of starch into fermentable sugars. Different colours of malts are prepared from the same grain by allowing the grain to roast at different times and temperatures. Dark malts produce dark beers. Majority of beers have malted barley as starch source as its fibrous husk is not only important in the sparging process but also contains amylase, a digestive enzyme which converts starch into fermentable sugars. In the recent years brewers have produced gluten-free beer from the malted sorghum especially for those individuals who are unable to digest gluten-rich beer derived from malted barley, corn and rice.

The foremost components of flavouring of beer are the hops which are derived from the hop vine. Hops are actually the flowers of hop vine which act as flavouring agents as well as preservative. Apart from hops certain herbs and berries are also used as flavouring agents. Hops add a bitter taste as well as balance the sweetness of the malt. Bitterness of beer is measured on International Bitterness Units Scale. Hops add floral, citrus and herbal aromas and flavours to beer. Hops have an antibiotic effect and allow the use of lesser number of micro-organisms and have a preservative action. The micro-organism responsible for the fermentation of beer is the yeast. Yeast converts the sugars obtained from malted grains into alcohols and carbon dioxide and therefore turns wort into beer. It also imparts character and flavor to beer. The dominant strains of yeast used in fermentation are the ale yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisae) and the lager yeast (Saccharomyces uvarum) which produce ale and lager beers respectively. Some brewers also add clarifying agents to beer as they precipitate out of the beer along with the protein solids and are found in traces only in the finished product. These agents make beer fine and clean instead of the cloudy touch as that obtained from wheat in the olden times. Commonly used clarifying agents are isinglass obtained the swim bladders of fishes, Irish moss from seaweed.

There are many varieties of beer found all over the world but the basic concepts of their preparation are always shared among different nations. The traditional European brewing regions like Germany, Belgium, and United Kingdom have local varieties of beer. Brewers from Canada, USA and Australia are so much inspired by the European style of beer preparation that they have developed their own different indigenous varieties of beer. Apart from the different varieties beer can be classified into two major types depending upon the temperature of brewing which affects yeast activity during fermentation. Beers may be lagers brewed at high temperature and regionally available ales brewed at low temperatures. Ales may be further divided into pale ale, brown or dark ale and stout. Beers are basically classified on the basis of yeast action used in fermentation. Beers which require fast acting warm fermentation leaving behind residual sugars are classified as ales while beers utilizing slow acting cold fermentation where the yeast removes most of the sugars are lagers. Steam beer, Alt and some modern British Golden Summer Beers use elements of both ale and lager beers for their preparation.

Limbic is a variety of beer that is prepared in Belgium by using wild yeast rather than the cultivated one. Many of the varieties of yeast used for making lambic are not the strains of S.cerevisae so they impart different flavours and aroma to beer. Strains of yeast like Brettanomyces bruxellensis and Brettanomyces lambicus are used for making lambics. Lactobacillus is basically responsible for the sour taste of lambics where it produces acids. Stout and porter are dark beers prepared by using roasted malt or roasted barley and brewed by slow fermenting yeast. There are other varieties also like the Baltic porter, imperial stout and dry stout. The term Porter was used for the first time in 1721 to describe a dark coloured beer popular in the streets and river porters of London. This beer was later on got famous by the tag stout. The history of stout and porter got intertwined later on.

Another variety is wheat which is significantly obtained by the use of wheat but it also contains certain proportion of malted barley also. They are usually top fermented and the flavour of wheat beers vary considerably according to the style in which they are brewed. Ales are prepared by warm fermentation by using brewer's yeast that clumps and rises to the surface so they are called as top fermenting beers and also require higher temperatures and get fermented more quickly in comparison to lagers. The suitable temperature for carrying out fermentation of ales is 15-24?C. in this temperature range yeast produces suitable esters and flavours along with aroma products resulting in a beer with fruity touch like that of apple, pineapple, banana, plum and others. Hops were introduced into England in the 15th century and after the addition of hops in brewing the term beer was used. The term Real Ale was coined by Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) in 1973 for the beer brewed by using traditional ingredients and secondary fermentation without use of carbon dioxide.

The cool fermenting beers of European origin are termed as lagers. The pale lagers are the most popularly consumed beers all over the globe. The word lager has got its origin from a German word lagern which means to store because the brewers used to store the beers in cool cellars and caves during the hot summer months and they observed that fermentation process continued in the stored beers and this resulted in better quality of beers. The yeast used for fermentation of lagers is very much active at lower temperatures and it carries out primary fermentation at the temperature range of 7-12?C and then a long secondary fermentation at 0-4?C. After the secondary fermentation is over lagers become clear. Cooler temperature also inhibits unusual production of esters and other byproducts resulting in production of a tasty lager beer. The modern method of lager production was put forward by Gabriel Sedlmayr the Younger, who clarified the dark brown lager at Spaten Brewery in Bavaria, and Anton Dreher brewed an amber-red coloured lager in Vienna in 1840-1841. With the improvement of yeast strains modern lagers get ready within a very short time period say from 1-3 weeks.

Malt is responsible for the particular colouration of beer. The common colour of beers is pale amber which is basically produced by the use of pale malts. Pale lagers and pale ales are prepared from the malt dried with coke. Coke was used for the first time in 1642 for roasting the malt but this step was prohibited in 1703 but the term pale ale came into existence. In terms of sale and volume the majority of the beers are based on the pale lagers brewed in 1842 in the town of Pilsen in the present-day Czech Republic. The pale lager consumed in the present scenario is very light in colour passed through carbonation with alcoholic strength of around 5% only. Pilsner Urquell, Bitburger, and Heineken are the common brands of pale lager beers and Budweiser, Coors, and Miller are common American brands of pale lager beer. Dark beers are generally brewed from pale malt or lager base malt along with certain proportion of dark malt to achieve a desired colour. Caramel, roasted unmalted barley are also used for achieving a dsired shade of beer.

The alcoholic strength of beer ranges from less than 3% by volume (abv) to around 14% (abv) although this strength can be further increased up to 20 % (abv) by use of champagne yeast and 60% (abv) by freeze distillation process. The alcohol content of beer varies with style and practice. Alcohol in beers comes from the sugars that metabolized during the fermentation process. The quantity of fermentable sugars in wort and the strain of yeast used for the fermentation of wort are responsible for the alcoholic content in the finally obtained beer. Sometimes fermentable sugars and enzymes are also added for increasing alcoholic strength of beer. Alcohol is produced as a byproduct of yeast fermentation and is toxic to the yeast. Low temperature and too little fermentation decrease the activity of yeast and so as the alcoholic content of final beer. The alcoholic content of beers has increase in the last few years of 20th century and a Dutch brewery has produced the strongest beer with alcoholic content of 60% (abv).

The brewing industry is a multinational business in the modern world and it works in collaboration with regional as well as national breweries. Microbrewery is a modern brewery that produces a limited amount of beer every year around 15,000 barrels. A brewpub is a microbrewery serving beer along with some edible materials also. Draught beer from a pressurized keg is the most frequent method of dispensing beers in the bars. A metal keg is generally used which is first filled with beer and then pressurized by using carbon dioxide. Nitrogen is also used sometimes for sealing beer kegs. Cask ales are unconditioned and unpasteurized beers. When a cask arrives in a pub it is kept horizontally in a frame called stillage which is designed to hold it at 90? and then allowed to cool at the cellar temperature before being tapped and vented.

Beers are basically cleared off from the yeasts before they undergo packaging in bottles and cans. Bottle conditioned beers however retain some yeast that is left unfiltered so beers should be poured slowly. Many beers are typically sold in cans all over the world. People drink directly either from cans or by pouring into the glass. Cans protect beer from coming in contact with light and there is little of no risk of leakage. Plastic bottles are also used for packaging beers. Temperature of beer strongly influences the drinker's experience. Warmer temperature reveals flavour of beer and cool beers are more refreshing. Most drinkers prefer to consume pale lagers chilled while imperial stouts are generally preferred at room temperature.

The beer writer Michael Jackson has proposed a five level scale for serving beer. He has suggested following types like chilled for light beers, chilled for wheat beers, lightly chilled for dark lagers, cellar temperature for British ale, stout and room temperature for strong dark ales. The consumption of chilled beer began in 1870s and spread to all parts of the globe where pale lager was preferred on high scale. Chilling the beer adds a refreshing taste to it but chilling below 15.5?C reduces the taste and at 10?C awareness and taste both decline. Beers served at room temperature have a wonderful flavour. Cask Marque is a non-profit beer producing organization which has set a temperature range of 12?-14?C for serving the cask ales. Beers are served either in cans, mugs, glasses etc. The glassware used for drinking beer may influence the character and style of an individual. Many breweries offer branded glasswares for serving beer. Beer is poured in a style in the drinking glasses and opening of beer container releases carbon dioxide as it is opened.

Many social activities have been found to be associated with drinking like playing cards, pub games etc. Beer is most popularly consumed all over the world in a high proportion in comparison to the wine which the second most popularly consumed beverage. The main active key component of beer is alcohol so also affects human health. Moderate consumption of beer reduces the risk of cardiac arrest and cognitive decline. Long term effects of alcohol increase the risk of liver damage. The brewer's yeast used for the fermentation of beer is a rich source of nutrients like magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, biotin and vitamin B and therefore, beer is sometimes called as liquid bread. According to a study conducted by Japanese scientists in 2005 low alcohol beers have strong anti-cancer properties. Non-alcoholic beers reduce the risk of cardiovascular disorders. But over consumption of anything is injurious so beers must be consumed in a limit.

From the process of preparation till packaging and up to marketing the brewers put so much effort and this effort is the key of the success of breweries all over the world. One must enjoy beer at least once in his or her lifetime.









Tuesday, February 22, 2011

A Brief History of Home Brewing


Anybody can go to the local grocery store and buy six pack of beer of their choosing, but it takes real dedication to learn how to brew and enjoy your own homemade beer. 7,000 years ago, when it is estimated that alcohol was first discovered and brewed, most people had no choice but to brew in their own home. Eventually, commercial breweries changed that when they learned how to mass produce beer for consumption. Still, even though commercial breweries exist and beer is easy to obtain, home brewing is still practiced today by connoisseurs and hobbyists.

In the 1800's, once commercial breweries began to take root, home brewing was heavily taxed in an effort to bring more profits to the breweries. Eventually, prohibition came about and banned all forms of alcohol, again making home brewing the only way to obtain it. Although the practice was risky, it was very popular until 1933, when the prohibition was lifted because of how it enabled organized crime and beer smuggling cartels. Although wine was the first alcohol that was again legalized in the United States, it took several more decades for beer brewing to be made legal again due to an error in the way the law was written.

Now, commercial breweries have forged their way into the fabric of Western society and although home brewing is legal and still practiced, it is far less practical than it used to be. Most home brewing has been left to the beer "snobs" and fanatics that find pleasure in creating their own recipes. Some swear that no commercial beer can compare with the taste of a home brewed beer, but because of the material cost and the time necessary to prepare a home brew, most do not take the time and/or effort to do so.

However, one popular trend that has emerged from the home brewing crowd is the "micro brew," which is somewhat of a hybrid between the home brewing elite and the commercial breweries. Micro brew is generally practiced extensively in the United States and is often sold at smaller micro breweries and pubs. Although micro brews are more expensive than traditional commercial beers, they are widely popular because of the unique taste and quality of the brew, which is something that a mass produced beer cannot duplicate.

Home brewed cider is also a popular trend in home brewing because it is much easier to create and is often more potent. For those that prefer a sweet alcohol to that of a lager or stout, cider offers a perfect alternative.

Although home brewing has generally declined over the past several years, there has recently been a rise in the practice because of the ease of obtaining materials and ingredients. Readymade home brewing kits and instruction and materials have tremendously reduced the learning curve required to brew your own beer. Typically, a home brewed beer can be produced in 6-8 weeks depending on the type of beer and equipment used.








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